The Wester Ross
After 50 kilometers, we first stop at Rogie Falls, just before Loch Garve. From the parking lot we make a wonderful walk through the old forest. The waterfall itself is not really spectaculair, but the forest is a beautiful place to walk around.
Near Loch Glascarnoch we have to take a picture of the landscape. We have learned our lesson from last year: it's better to take too much pictures than too few. The Highlands are rather bare (because of deforestation and the grazing by sheep throughout the centuries), but the landscape also has something charming with all the soft slopes and especially with all the different skies above it. The colours in this country are never the same, because of the type of light that falls upon the country. Even with gray weather, Scotland is beautiful to see and to travel through it. It always offers a different view.
On a parking lot we exchange camera's with another couple to get a picture of the both of us. Well, our nice car also wanted to be the star of a picture, so here it is...
Close to Braemore lies Corrieshalloch Gorge, another cross on our map. The Falls of Measach are 54 metres high and the narrow river valley at once becomes an impressive gorge. There is a suspension bridge with a sign which states not more than 5 people are allowed to stand on the bridge at the same time!
It is only a short walk from the road and surely worthwhile to have a look at when you are in the neighbourhood! It is also a nice place for long walks.
There is also an observation platform, from where one has a great view on the waterfall. It hangs a bit scary above the gorge, but even Elisabeth dares to stand on it!
Soon we meet the first sheep, walking about freely. Sometimes we cross cattle grids, but the sheep seem to be everywhere. We don't know how the farmers tell them apart; some of them are painted, but most are not. Anyhow, the sheepdog must be pretty good at their job to bring all those sheep together in these vast areas.The scenery is savage, barren, empty and soft at the same time. The soft green sheen on the hills and the clear blue sea make perfect shots for a movie!
Inverewe, with the Inverewe Gardens, lies on the west coast. The climate is surprisingly mild, thanks to the warm Gulf Stream which brings warm water from Mexico. At the end of the 19th century, Osgood Mackenzie made good use of this by constructing a botanical garden here, with plants from al over the world. At the borders of the gardens there are firm bushes and trees to guard the more vulnerable plants inside. Of course, Elsiabeth has to take some seeds from plants with her.
We thought the gardens cover only a small area and we can rush through them, but after an hour we are completely lost. The place is much bigger than we thought and offers sometimes surprisingly nice views over the sea. It is September, but with the nice weather it looks like a subtropical jungle.
Of course, Teije takes the first single track road he sees after that. Locals are sometimes annoyed by the way tourists drive on these roads: too slow. So let people coming from behind pass at a passing place (PP's we have come to call them) when you are not in a hurry; don't stop at once when you see a car coming, try to estimate the speed you need to catch a PP without the other car having to slow down. But most important: never forget to raise your hand when the oncoming car passes you! When the other people don't do the same they are either tourists or English, certainly not Scottish!
At Poolewe we cross the river which flows into Loch Maree, an elongated lake with lots of islands in it. For hikers (at this moment we happen to be not one of them) this is a marvellous area to take long walks.After Loch Maree we arrive at Glen Docharty, a valley which becomes narrower with (again) wonderful views. To the right a picture from the Glen in the direction of Loch Maree.
© Teije and Elisabeth 2000 - 2012
Travel through Europe and Africa
with Elisabeth and Teije