Via Bonar Bridge and Harrods to Ullapool
Considering the time of year, the weather is beautiful and much better than we had expected. Near Bonar Bridge we take roads where we haven't been before to go to Carbisdale Castle.
The neogothic castle which looks out over the Kyle of Sutherland is a youth hostel now, probably one of the most chic youth hostels on the world. The castle was build between 1906 and 1917 by the Sutherland family for a stepmother who made a fuss about an inheritance. So you see, it can pay off to have an argument with one's family.
The Sutherlands who ruled over this area were responsible for the 'clearances' in the 19th century, the deportation of tenants and whole families of famers to other regions, so the Sutherlands could use the land for the much more lucrative breeding of Cheviot-sheep. On the churchyard at Croick Church (on the piucture) 18 families (92 people) tried to hide for Sutherlands, although the people of the village weren't quite happy with them.
Along this way we come across more scenic rivers and desolated roads. We could drive for hours on roads like this and we never get bored by the landscape. Scotland really is one of the best countries we have ever been and we feel at home here.
At the Falls of Shin there is a visitor's center, which is the Harrods shop of Scotland. The owner of Harrods, Mohammed Al-Fayed, lives in a castle in the Highlands and wanted a local Harrods in Scotland. One can choose from several luxurious articles and order anything. Although it lies quite isolated it seems to be an attraction, even for the Scottish themselves. We buy some butter toffees and a small bottle of whisky, both with a Harrods label.
We have seen nicer falls than the Shin Falls, but it is always good for a picture. It is getting a bit colder although we can still walk around without coat.
At Lairg we take a break and when we come outside it rains. We take the road to the west coast and on the way we are surprised now and then by heavy cloudbursts. But now and then the suns come out and we see some very beautiful rainbows. Even in the rain this country has a certain charm, although we are happy we sit inside a warm car.
At Ullapool is our next stop in the Arch Inn where the walls are filled with soccer-relics. It turns out to be one of the better pubs of Ullapool and the homebase for the local soccerteam.While we sit inside the rain stops and the sky becomes a bit clearer.
We see some really spectacular skies when we drive back to Beauly. Fortunately, most Scottish roads are of very good quality, even the narrow single track roads. Through a beautiful scenery with snowy mountains we travel to Beauly.
© Teije and Elisabeth 2000 - 2012
Travel through Europe and Africa
with Elisabeth and Teije