Elisabeth & Teije's reis website

To the peninsula in the west of Kefalonia


Home -> Europe -> Greece -> Travelogue Greece -> 30 June 2018

Saturday 30 June, to the peninsula in the west of Kefalonia

It is already very hot when we wake up and I put our outdoor table in the shade of a few trees. Our landlord comes to have a chat and he clearly doesn't like it when he sees that I have moved the table. It is allright only when I promise put it back in exactly the same place. Fortunately, we have the car in the right spot even though there is only our car and 7 parking spaces.
After breakfast we first take a swim, again at the same beach that we like very much and is only a 10 minute drive away. Then we return to the apartment for a quick shower after which we go to the large Paliki peninsula in the west of Kefalonia. This is a much less mountainous area, especially in the south, and the most fertile part of the island.
Memorial park in Lixouri Statue of Andreas Laskaratos, LixouriWe drive along the coast to Lixouri, which lies opposite Argostoli on the estuary. In 1757, Argostoli was chosen as the capital of Kefalonia over Lixouri and it seems that since then (as our trotter travel guide says) homeric quarrels regularly erupt between the two cities. In Lixouri we finally see a statue that has nothing to do with war, namely of Andreas Laskaratos, a satirical poet and writer from the 19th century who fiercely opposed the hypocrisy of politicians and church leaders (a man to our heart), but who was excommunicated by the church and was also imprisoned. He was born in Lixouri but died in Argostoli.
Ferry in Lixouri The mountains of Kefalonia from LixouriLixouri is a spacious town (after the devastating earthquake of 1953 it had to be completely rebuilt) and we drink a cup of coffee on the big square, near the harbor. From the harbor a ferry goes to Argostoli every half hour, a faster connection than when you completely drive around the estuary, like we did. We take a short walk on the boulevard and then continue to the south.
Red sand on the Xi beach, Kefalonia Xi beach, KefaloniaOn the south side of Paliki lies the Xi Beach (the ξ is the Greek letter that denotes the x-sound and is called Xi), one of the most famous beaches of the island, or actually there are 3 beaches, interrupted by rocks and they have fine red sand. The beach runs down very slowly into the sea so that it is ideal for children. When we drive back we give a lift to a few Dutchmen who are sweating in the sun: their apartment is a lot further away from the sea than they thought, indeed a few kilometers. Not really great to walk when it is 35 degrees!
We can not pass by, KefaloniaVia Vouni we want to drive west, but the road is blocked by an excavator that was left behind in the middle of the road. It is Saturday and there is nobody at work now so we have little choice other than to turn around and find a different way. Scattered over Paliki are some villages but there are not many and along the coast there are a number of small beaches with only a restaurant and a few accommodations but nothing else.
Mountains at Chavriata, Kefalonia A pig on KefaloniaFrom Chavriata we have a nice overview of Kefalonia and the 25 km long mountain ridge that dominates the island. We are always surpised to see so much green, while in summer there is little rain. Although, this year we have already had the amount of 2 months of rain in 2 days time. But especially in winter it rains often enough. And many trees and shrubs that do well here, like dry soil like the olive tree. In an olive grove we see a few stray pigs, something else than the normal stray goats, sheep or cows.
The coast at the monastery Kipoureon, KefaloniaBut the most characteristic color for Greece is the clear blue of the water that flows around the coasts and the often clear skies. The colors of the Greek flag are blue and white and symbolize the sea and the sky. Greece is thus mainly defined by what lies around it, the framework, and not by the country itself. I think blue is a beautiful color anyway, but especially the shades that the sea takes on when it is sunny and I cannot stop taking photos of it.
The sea at Petani beach, Kefalonia Petani beach, KefaloniaLike at the Petani beach, again a beautiful white beach. Very well known and therefore very busy although that has only been the case for a number of years. We drive down the road with hairpin bends but then also quickly go back up again, from where we have a much better view. On the right picture you see the long line of cars parked along the road, that goes all the way up.
Cicadas on a tree trunk, Kefalonia Beach chairs in the bay at LivadiNear Petani beach we see a pole full of cicadas, at least we think these insects are. The males can make a great noise by contracting a muscle in their stomach that amplifies the sound. Nature is certainly not quiet here.
When we drive back we see a couple of beach chairs in the water in the bay of Lixouri, a funny face. There is also ebb and flow here, but usually not as intense as in the North Sea. And if the coast only runs slowly down into the sea, with this hot weather it is of course lovely to sit in the sea. Be careful with burning!
A terrace in Kourouklata Church square in Kourouklata, KefaloniaIn Kourouklata we see a nice restaurant with a view over the sea and there we order something to eat. Usually we only take a warm meal every 2 days, even in the holidays, but this year we find ourselves often in a restaurant, ordering food. Well, food is not that expensive here either, and it's usually very tasty. Again we get another delicious meal and we are enjoying it for a long time.
At home we see that we have neighbors from Moldavia. Parents with a teenage girl who desperately searches for the Wi-Fi signal walking around in the parking lot. Fortunately, we have our own wifi with us because the signal is indeed lousy here. The owner had promised to do something about it but apparently that has not happened yet. I am reminded of our 14-year-old granddaughter Esmée and how she would respond when she does not have internet: 'I will die', she would probably say, so I can fully imagine how it should be for this girl who is around 15 years. And that's why I go to her and let her log in on our Wi-Fi. We can not understand a word from each other but she is clearly relieved. Again a good deed done today!

 


© Teije & Elisabeth 2000 - 2023 To the top of the page